Confession time once again!
- Gunes Coban
- 16. 12. 2025
- Minut čtení: 6
Or about how I managed again not to write this past week…
I am in Istanbul! It is a fascinating city. It has been some days again that I am here travelling from one neighbourhood to another. My first day started with a long walk along the Bosphorus, brilliant weather, dramatic clouds, lots of people, fishermen along the shore, crazy drivers, centuries old Platane trees, buzzing streets and the smell of the sea.
I walked for about two and a half hours with my memories travelling in time, remembering various states of being on various parts of the walk. This used to be my walk at least 3 times a week when I was studying at University.
After a while I jumped on the crazy bus and got off at Yenikoy, meaning the new village (which of course is very old). I slipped into the amazing restaurant Apartiman (you can find them on instagram), where my beloved Burcak Kaygun Chef has been working for so many years. I love that place. I had a meeting with Nazli as we needed to meet and speak (also about the books). But as I got there earlier I had a long cuddle with Burcak. It is always amazingly heartwarming to unite with dear friends.
Then Nazli arrived and we started our gastronomic orgie. Burcak sent us one dish after the other, and we were transported into another world, a world of discovery and pleasures. (I still have the taste vividly roaming about in my memory after 4 days).
Allow me to write a little about Burcak and Nazli. I had mentioned their names in the past in my blogs: Burcak Kaygun is not only a chef but a visual artist and painter who transformed into a brilliant chef, one of a kind, yes, kind and firm and very witty :) When I was writing about the very start of my process, I mentioned that a painting of Burcak’s is hanging next to my desk in Corsica. I love that painting. And another one is in my bedroom in Prague.
Burcak’s flat is my second home in Istanbul and we always have tender and funny moments when we are together. And we always have something great to eat.
Nazli is my writer and storyteller friend, and you might remember her from last summer, because she was in Prague with me, while we were having a writers’ residency. She has started writing a book about Somatic Dialogue and my journey. We had a great 2 weeks, fully concentrated on the topic, she was taking notes, we were talking, and I was writing the first chapters of my book (the one I mention in these articles - and the one I haven’t been writing these past days). Well with Nazli we were talking about the book and how it has its own rhythm, and that one cannot force it. And of course I had to agree as she is an experienced writer, and I was so ready to not write these days.
Our meeting was inspired and nourished so much that I completely forgot to take photos of the wonders we were introducing into our bodies. I managed one entire dish and another one half way through. The others landed in our bellies making us purr with delight. (not to mention the cats that are in the restaurant, as everyone there is cat friendly. Osman the tomcat was our silent escort throughout the afternoon)
The service was great there, we were served by a charming gentleman who explained everything about every dish. Don’t miss a chance, go to Apartiman for lunch, as you’ll need a good walk afterwards, not because the food is heavy, but because you will want to taste everything on the menu!
The next day I moved on to the busy part of the old town, Beyoglu, especially the Tunel part. After having a great night with Burcak, chatting until 2 in the morning, we finally crashed into deep sleep. And in the morning I took the old tube going up from Karakoy to Tunel to walk towards my next destination, which was going to host my 2 days workshop on Somatic Dialogue and Muhabbet.
Entering this old building at the beginning of Asmalimescit street made memories of 28 years ago flash in my mind and also in my body. I used to give some classes in the same studio which was owned by other people then. Today this studio is called Kun, it has been renovated, but the whole building is an amalgam of layered experiences and history, of 100-years-old dust, traces and smells… the once probably glorious marble staircase is covered in neglect and decay but the high ceilings of every floor are still beautiful.
It was like going back but yet being anchored in the presence. We had a wonderful 2 days with the group and I thoroughly enjoyed teaching in Turkish, where the words and meanings need no further explanation: Muhabbet, can, iç erimesi, sohbet, gönül kapısı, gönlün gözü, zarafet…. I always try explaining these notions in the other languages when I teach, but here I just mention them and everyone falls into the semantic net of these words and subtle movement happens naturally.
I have included these notions in the book of course, because they are deep emotional codes that trigger certain states of the body and the mind. And I deeply enjoyed sharing these moments with my compatriots.
The old windows and doors opening to tiny little balconies overlooking the narrow street let the noise of the street enter the space. The noise is neverending there, it flows like a river, non-stop: people speaking loudly, music from every bar, the bell of the old tram passing through the main street, some cars and motorbikes… children shouting… an amazing sound river that is flowing outside the windows. And there we are with the group, making silence inside our minds, inviting the body to a gentle flow, allowing inner images to shape the movement and we are all witnessing the unique expressions being born in the movement, without us forcing anything.
The group was unique and precious: everyone surrendered from the first moment, and although nearly no-one knew each other before except for 4 people the harmony within the group was soothing. The “allowing” during the work happened step by step and we journeyed for two days together. I am tremendously grateful to each participant who made this into a very special weekend.
I played one piece by Philip Glass, The Poet Acts, during the workshop amongst many, but this piece in particular reflects well all the emotions and energies I have passed through in Istanbul.. and I think it is a piece like Istanbul… what do you think?
I have walked a total of 35 km the past 4 days and spent 14 hours in the studio over two days. I have crossed from Europe to Asia, was blessed by the seagulls, saw thousands of faces, was washed by torrents of energy, watched herds of medusas swimming, witnessed dramatic change, pain, joy, exaggerated wealth, chaos, suffering, drama, colours, smells and tastes.. It felt like being in a world created from a sorcerer’s cauldron placed on a fire burning over centuries.
And even if this chaos is overwhelming I still believe that I spent the last days in one of the most picturesque cities of the world. Istanbul, my love!
And that is why, I can’t wait to have some time to calm down and continue writing the book. I would really like to finish the first draft in about three months from now.
There it is.. I have said it. Let’s see if I will be able to keep my word.
And in the meantime dear reader, I leave to have a glance at some pictures I have taken in Istanbul… And a Turkish tango for you : Ask Denizi - Sea of Love
till we meet again
stay in love
B
PS: I am always generously gifted by a dear friend, Aykut Dokur, with music. He has been collecting music most of his life, he is an architect, surfer and a Tango DJ, and we sometimes meet and just listen to music, talk about it and share lots of pieces with each other. I am lucky :) Thank you Aykut’cum!
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